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Pondicheri's Nirvanic Dishes

New Yorker

"For dinner, start with the braised-goat-and-lentil samosa, a reversal of the food-cart routine, gauzy on the outside & hearty in the center.  Then count the number of people at your table & order a quail for each of them.  Stuffed with pine nuts, roasted in the tandoor, and striped with cilantro chutney, it's a Nirvanic dish, with no orange in sight."

 

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